The Wood Stove Accessories Blog

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I own a home that is heated with an oil furnace. We tend to keep the temperature down, as a $$ saving measure. As we age, my husband’s and my tolerance for the cold has gone down. If we turn the thermostat down at night, when we are bundled up under the covers and raise the temperature when we get up; are we saving money or spending it to rewarm the house? Question #2 is for those of you who supplement your heating with a wood stove. What kind of work is involved in the installation, if there has never been one in the house before? I am talking about a professional installation; because of the venting issues - we would never attempt to do something like this on our own. The job demands someone who knows what they are doing. I am thinking that this is one job where the installation might exceed the cost of the stove itself. Please feel free to jump in with information that you may have, even if you don’t know the answer to both questions.
Odd that you’ve asked this. My wife just found an old wood stove at a local thrift shop. $100 and I was thinking that I was styling! A trip to Home Depot, Menards, and Farm and Fleet sure did give us a wake up call! $385 later in single walled pipe, double walled pipe, adapters, Heat transfers, etc… made me wonder if this was a good choice. Home Depot sells an all-in-one kit with exception of the single and double walled pipes, but, we went with Menards because even with buying everything seperate it was a hand full of $’s cheaper. As for instalation I am doing it myself. The internet has all the codes and steps to do this properly. Plus I have all the necessary tools (a big plus) however, I don’t start instalation till tommorow morning. If you want a play by play on the problems we run into, just e-mail or IM me sometime tommorow. If I am in a good mood you’ll know it was a breeze. Any four letter words slip out, then it probably isn’t a good idea!

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Hundreds of residents in Michigan will have new wood stoves this winter according to Diane Ivey of Michigan State University’s Capital News Service.  They will have the new wood stoves as part of an initiative of the Michigan United Conservation Clubs and Department of Environmental Quality.

Also involved in the program are E.P.A. and the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association, which chipped in rebates of up to $600 toward the replacement of traditional wood-burning stoves with EPA-certified stoves or fireplaces.

Apparantly five hundred stoves were replaced during the summer.  MUCC Exec. Director Dennis Muchmore said that consumers will benefit both economically and ecologically from the replacement program.

“Efficient stoves burn much less fuel, meaning they burn a smaller hole in a homeowner’s pocket,” he said. “By upgrading to a modern-efficiency stove, residents are also contributing to the green economy by heating their homes with cleaner energy sources.”

Newer EPA certified stoves give users more heat per dollar.  Old wood stoves usually operate at around 50% efficiency or worse, while new ones can be up to 78 percent efficient.  Instead of the heat going up the chimney, more of it stays in the home.

Older stoves operate with a catalytic combustion system, like a car, which can put out harmful amounts of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide, while the new stoves operate on a non-catalytic system or have catalytic converters to reduce emissions.

Economic factors are the driving force prompting people to look at wood stoves as an alternative for home heating. Some are using wood stoves to supplement their existing systems while others are using them as the primary source of heating in the home.

In exchange for the discounts and rebates, participants in the program agreed to replace their old stoves with EPA-approved wood, pellet, corn, gas or electric stoves. The old stoves were then recycled.

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When installing wood stove gaskets begin by removing the old gasket material. If the old gasket comes out in one piece, measure how long it is so you will know the best replacement size to install in your wood stove.

Once the old gasket has been removed, clean away all the old adhesive thoroughly. Setting up a wire wheel on a drill will work great for this, or if you want to do it by hand use steel wool. A good clean metal surface is necessary for good adhesion when installing the new wood stove gasket.

Begin installing the new wood stove gasket at the top corner of the wood stove door opening.  This makes the gasket’s joining seam less susceptible to loosening by hot coals and ashes.

Once you are finished installing the wood stove gasket, close the door(s) to press the new gasket into place for a few minutes. Then open the door(s) and keep them open for 24 hours to allow the gasket adhesive to set up properly before closing the door and beginning to use your wood stove.  That’s all there is to installing wood stove gaskets.

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When we talk about installing a wood stove many people think of the traditional Ben Franklin stove, but that is a thing of the past - today’s wood stove models feature both improved safety and efficiency. They produce almost no emmissions (i.e. smoke), create minimal ash, and require less firewood.  This saves both time and money buying or hauling firewood.

Installing a Wood Stove for Different Uses

Wood stoves can be sized to heat a family room, a small cottage, or a full-sized home. The best choices are appliances that are labeled by the Underwriters’ Laboratories of Canada (ULC) or another qualified testing and certification body for safety. They should also be low-emission certified by EPA standards.

For comparison, the older uncertified stoves and fireplaces release 40 to 60 grams of smoke per hour; while the new EPA-certified stoves produce only 2 to 5 grams of smoke per hour.  EPA certified wood stoves burn more cleanly and efficiently, save you money, reduce the risk of fire, and improve air quality inside and outside the home.

What Size Wood Stove to Install

EPA certified wood stoves come in different sizes, namely small stoves suitable for heating a family room or a seasonal cottage. They can also be used in larger homes with older central furnaces, for “zone heating” a specific area of the home reducing fuel consumption, conserving energy and saving money while maintaining comfort.

Medium stoves are suitable for heating small houses, medium-sized energy-efficient houses, and cottages used in winter while large stoves can be used for larger, open plan houses or older, leakier houses in colder climate zones.

Check out our archives for more information on installing a wood stove.

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When installing and maintaining a wood stove be sure you are taking the proper safety precautions.  Better to be safe than sorry.

The Midwest Chimney Safety Council (MCSC) recently issued a warning to its members to prepare for the busiest season they have seen in decades. Since here are only so many qualified chimney sweeps to go around, there may not be enough to serve the public. Chimney sweeps may not be able to keep up with demand for cleaning, inspection, and installation services.  In fact many Chimney Sweeps are reporting that their busy season, which usually starts September 1, started in mid-July this year.

The big increase in demand is a result of consumers turning to alternative methods of heating such as wood stoves, wood-burning fireplace inserts, and wood-burning furnaces.  Some thrifty consumers may attempt to do the installation or service work themselves and may create a safety hazard by doing it wrong. “One of the biggest mistakes is not installing a properly sized flue liner with a fireplace insert,” says Marge Padgitt, Educational Director for the MCSC. “If the liner is too large it can cause excessive flammable creosote accumulation, which can lead to a chimney fire.”

Improper installation and maintenance is the cause of most house fires related to heating appliances so consumers are encouraged to get an inspection and any necessary work done by an CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep rather than doing it themselves or hiring an unqualified chimney company.

Fireplace flues should be inspected and cleaned annually. Wood stoves or inserts used for heating should be inspected and cleaned at least twice during the wood-burning season.  Some manufacturers recommend sweeping the chimney once per month so check your owners manual for details.

Visit the MCSC website at http//www.mcsc-net.org Midwest Chimney Safety Council for free consumer information.

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Some interesting ideas and perspectives on wood stove installation and use:

• Max Blank Rotating Wood Stoves - By Andrew Liszewski. Looking for an unusual way to heat your home this winter? Max Blank produces a large range of designer, wood-burning stoves that don’t necessarily need to be installed in a corner or against a wall. …

• Keep warm this winter with iBuyWoodStoves - Man, was it chilly here this morning. The windshields of our cars were covered in condensation that was just this side of actual frost. Time to start gearing up for home heating season! We have a forced air heating system, …

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If you are joining the growing group of people that are interested in conserving on home heating costs by installing a wood stove you can choose the stove that is right for you by asking some simple questions.

Wood Stove Questions

1. Are the wood stoves I am considering EPA approved? 

You can normally find the answer to this question by finding the stickers on the stoves that tell you whether or not they are certified by the EPA. Certified stoves will be more environmentally friendly and burn more efficiently.  Other information about Btu ratings and square footage heating estimates may also prove helpful but don’t depend on them too much because there is no standard system for calculating these estimates. 

2. What is your main purpose for the stove?

Do you want it for heating, cooking, emergencies or just ambiance?  If it is just for emergencies or ambiance you can get away with a small stove.  If you intend to use if for cooking then you will want to look for stoves designed with cooking features.  If you want it for heat then you will want to get the stove that is sized correctly for the area you are trying to heat and that will do so as efficiently as possible.

3. How much heat does the wood stove need to provide?

It is important to get the correct size when it comes to wood stoves used for heating.  If you get a stove that is too small it will not be able to provide the heat you need.  On the other hand, if you buy a stove that is too large, you will pay more than necessary and you’ll be forced to cut down the stove’s air supply to control the heat, which will reduce efficiency, waste fuel and create a fire hazard.  It’s really not that complicated though.  If you are just heating one room you can get away with a small stove.  A small home will require a medium sized stove, while a large or poorly insulated home will normally require a large wood stove.  

Once you have answered these questions for yourself and found the stoves that fit your requirements it is simply a matter of taste.

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In a previous post we focused on wall and floor clearances for wood stove installation and materials that can be used to protect surfaces that where full clearance is not possible.  This post will focus on the stove pipe clearances required for safe operation.

These are based on standards developed by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) that are the basis for many local building codes.  

The stove pipe or chimney connector runs from the stove to the chimney. Many fires associated with wood stoves are caused by unsafe stove pipe installation. A safe installation requires proper material, construction clearances and does provide proper draft. A 24 gauge or thicker metal is recommended; lower gauge numbers indicate thicker metal. This gauge will provide better protection in the event of a chimney fire and will also resist chemical corrosion longer. Most stoves use either a 6 or 8-inch stove pipe. Using stove pipe that is smaller in diameter than the fire box outlet will reduce combustion efficiency and may cause improper draft.

Keep the connector pipe as short as possible. lt should not be longer than 75% of the vertical chimney height above the flue inlet (where the connector pipe enters the chimney). The maximum length is 10 feet. If the pipe runs horizontally, it should have a rise of at least 1/4-inch per linear foot from the elbow or stove outlet to the chimney inlet. Use 45″ angles to create an upward slope in the flue connector pipe. Try to have no more than one right angle turn between the stove and chimney.
 
Additional right angle bends can cause soot and creosote to collect in the smoke pipe or chimney, blocking flue gas flow and increasing the danger of a fire.

The connector pipe diameter should be as large as the flue collar (where the connector pipe joins the stove).  When joining sections of the pipe, overlap the joints at least 2 inches, with the crimped (male) end pointing down to prevent creosote drip or leak. Many house fires have resulted from stove pipe joints vibrating apart during a chimney fire. Secure each joint with at least 3 sheet metal screws. A fireproof sealant may be used in addition.

Clearances from a connector pipe must be 3 times the pipe diameter (a 6-inch pipe needs 18 inches clearance) unless the wall is protected. You should not pass a stove pipe through a combustible wall but if a stove pipe must pass through an interior combustible wall in order to hook up with a chimney flue, there are 4 ways to do this safely.

1) Use an U.L. “All Fuel” thimble extending through the wall, with a wall hole 4 inches larger than the thimble diameter. This permits the placement of an insulating material such as fiberglass or rock wool between the thimble and the wooden framing of the wall.

2) Use a ventilated thimble that is as least 3 times larger than the stove pipe. For a 6-inch stove pipe, use a thimble that is 18 inches in diameter. This type of thimble is not readily available but can be fabricated by a sheet metal shop. Ventilation through this thimble is an essential aspect of its design; the ventilating holes on either side must not be blocked.

3) Use a fire clay thimble surrounded by 8 inches of brick work or non-combustible material such as rock wool insulation.

4) Use no thimble but remove all combustible materials within 18 inches on all sides of the stove pipe. Material for closing this opening must be non-combustible, with insulating properties.

When the wall is cut between supporting studs for the thimble, inspect the opening to make sure there are no electrical wires or conduit in the space between adjoining wall studs. Heat from the stove pipe may be sufficient to melt the insulation on wire in this space, causing an electrical fire.

Stove pipe should not pass through ceilings, closets, or outside a building. Holes in the ceiling (including hot air registers) permit fires through upper floors. A closet fire could smolder and spread undiscovered.

Running a stove pipe out a window and up the outside wall of the house is a dangerous practice, because the pipe cools faster than a prefabricated metal chimney and allows a rapid creosote buildup. Wood burners sometimes recommend long spans of single thickness stove pipe as a heating device. This idea had some merit when used with old fashioned inefficient stoves where much of the heat went up the pipe. Today’s airtight stoves are more efficient and this practice may cause rapid creosote buildup.

Some stove installations require a damper either built into the stove or in the pipe near the stove to control draft and loss of volatile gases. Check the recommendation of the stove manufacturer.

When connecting the stove pipe to the chimney make sure the fitting is snug at the flue inlet. Use the proper thimble. The pipe must not project into the flue itself, since it would hamper draft.

Long stove pipes and those with restrictions should be cleaned frequently to prevent creosote buildup and possible chimney fires. The entire length of the stove pipe must be easily inspected, firmly fastened at the joints and kept free of all combustible materials. Tap
your pipe to check its condition several times during the heating season and before starting the stove each year.

Additional Precautions

1. Chimney and chimney connectors require regular inspection and cleaning to remain reasonably safe. Chimney fires are a common problem. There are several factors that can cause a chimney fire.

2. Furniture, wood, newspapers, matches, etc., can ignite if placed or left too close to a stove. These materials must be kept at least 36 inches away from the stove.

3. Stove surfaces can become as hot as 800 degrees F. At this temperature, combustible material can ignite and plastic material will melt. Be careful when drying clothing, making sure that nothing is dangling too near. Also, remove any slipping or tripping hazards near the
stove to reduce the risk of falling against it and perhaps suffering a severe burn. Small children must be taught to stay away from the stove. You should erect some kind of barricade around the stove if you have crawling tots who are too young to be verbally warned.

4. Never use kerosene or charcoal lighter fluids to start a fire. Also, do not burn trash in your stove. These materials lead to hot uncontrollable fires and may cause a chimney fire.

5. Keep the fire controlled with the dampers. Do not let it get roaring hot. A fire properly controlled is safer and more efficient.

6. If you want to keep your fire alive all night or when you are away from the house, bank the fire with ashes or damper it way down. Do not retire or leave home with a roaring fire going in the stove.

7. Place ashes in a lidded metal container. Because they might be hot, clean up any ashes or cinders that spill out on the floor.

8. Wear gloves when handling rough or splintery chunks of wood. If they are heavy, take care not to strain yourself or drop them on your foot.

9. You can burn wood in a coal stove, but you shouldn’t burn coal in a wood stove unless it is lined and designed for it. When you add coal to an approved stove, keep the stove pipe damper open until the fuel is burning well to avoid a potentially explosive buildup of gases from the coal. Heavily laden coal buckets can also cause strains and other mishaps if they are not handled properly.

10. Take down the stove pipe at least once or twice during the heating season and clean out the soot. Removing the accumulated soot saves fuel, increases heat and minimizes the danger of fire.

11. If you have yet to equip your house with fire warning devices, be sure to do so when you install a stove. Install a smoke detector in an adjacent room to avoid false alarms when you recharge the stove or from backpuffing due to wind.

12. Before opening the fire box to add fuel or just to look at the fire, always open the stove pipe damper first. This allows gases to escape up the chimney and eliminates the possibility of “flare up” when air suddenly comes in through the door.

13. With today’s tightly-constructed houses, there may not be sufficient air leakage for efficient stove operation. By providing an outside air inlet, you prevent the possibility of a reverse draft which may suck carbon monoxide fumes from combustion-type (natural gas, etc.) appliances and discharge them into the living area.

Installation of a wood stove is best left to the professionals.  Before installing a wood stove, seek advice from your stove dealer, your local building inspector or fire department.  It is also a very good idea to check with your insurance agent.  Your insurance provider may have its own specifications for installation and, since you will be changing the method of heating your home, your insurance agent must be notified in order to maintain fire insurance coverage on your home.

This information comes from Michigan State University Extension

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Standard Installation Clearances

Installation of a wood stove is typically a job that is best left to the professionals.  Before installing a wood stove, seek advice from your wood stove dealer, your local building inspector or fire department.  You’ll also need to check with your insurance agent.  Your insurance provider may have its own specifications for installation and, since you will be changing the method of heating your home, your insurance agent must be notified in order to maintain fire insurance coverage on your home.

Standards have been developed by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) for wood stove clearances from walls and ceilings that are the basis for many local building codes.  The basic clearances are as follows:

All combustible materials such as woodwork, unprotected walls, furniture, firewood, etc., should be at least 36 inches away from your wood stove.  A stove pipe should be at least 18 inches away from an unprotected ceiling.

Wood that is continually reheated will ignite at much lower temperatures than fresh wood so these distances should be adhered too diligently.  For instance, a new wall will begin burning at between temperatures between 500 and 700 degrees F, whereas a wall that is continually heated over a period of time will dry and the ignition temperature can drop to as low as 200 to 250 degrees F (a good reason to avoid cutting corners.)

Wall Protection Clearances

Here’s a quick test that will tell you if you have enough clearance to an unprotected wall.  Put your hand on the nearest surface. If you can comfortably keep your hand there while the stove is operating, the location passes the test. If not, the wall needs additional protection.

Protection for the wall can be achieved by spacing either asbestos millboard or 28 gauge steel 1-inch away from the wall.  This will allow you to reduce the distance between the stove and wall.  These materials are designed to absorb heat that is radiated from the stove and the spacing in between the wall and the protective material lets air circulate behind the panel and cool the area in between.  Spacers should be made of non-combustible material.  A 1 to 1 1/2-inch gap between the panel and floor and at the top of the panel is necessary to provide proper air flow.

Asbestos millboard is different from asbestos cement board or asbestos transite board. Asbestos millboard is heat resistant while the others are not.

WARNING: Inhaling asbestos fibers may be harmful. The effect of long term exposure is not completely known.  However, you should wear a protective mask when cutting asbestos products.

Since brick and stone are good conductors of heat, they offer little protection if placed against a combustible wall or have wood studs behind them. To be effective, bricks must be placed out at least 1-inch from the wall with air gaps at the top and bottom. You can create the air gaps by using half bricks on the top and bottom row. Stoves can be placed as close as 12 inches from the brick facing if you provide an air space behind the brick.

An inexpensive and temporary way to protect a wall (if you already have a stove installed closer than 36 inches to an unprotected wall) is to provide a baffle. This baffle could be sheet metal, hardware cloth or cement board hung on metal brackets approximately 4 inches behind the stove.

Floor Protection Clearances

All floors on which stoves are installed, except concrete, must be protected from both heat of the fire and hot coals falling out when fuel is added. Metal with asbestos backing and asbestos millboard are non-combustible materials used for floor protection.

Fireproof clay tile, slate, brick, colored pebbles and marble chips can be used alone only if they are mortared in place with no gaps. If they are not mortared, or have gaps, then metal or asbestos millboard must be installed between them and a wood floor.  A 2-inch layer of ashes or sand or bricks laid in the bottom of the stove helps to insulate the bottom of the stove and protect the floor.

In general, 18 inches is enough clearance to protect the floor if it is covered by non-flammable material, such as a sheet of 24 gauge metal or brick or fireproof clay tile. If the stove legs are from 6 to 18 inches long, 24 gauge sheet metal laid over a 1/4-inch sheet of asbestos millboard is needed. Legs of 6 inches or less require 2 to 4 inches of hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation and covered by 24 gauge sheet metal. If the stove has no legs, provide a sturdy support to allow air circulation under the stove.

The floor protection should extend at least 12 inches beyond the sides and rear of the stove, and at least 18 inches beyond the stove front, to protect against falling embers and for loading wood or removing ashes.

Before installing heavy protection materials such as brick, check the floor to make sure it can handle the increased weight. You may want to reinforce the joists under the floor. Consult a carpenter if necessary.

This information comes from Michigan State University Extension

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