The Wood Stove Accessories Blog

Some interesting ideas and perspectives on wood stove installation and use:

• Max Blank Rotating Wood Stoves – By Andrew Liszewski. Looking for an unusual way to heat your home this winter? Max Blank produces a large range of designer, wood-burning stoves that don’t necessarily need to be installed in a corner or against a wall. …

• Keep warm this winter with iBuyWoodStoves – Man, was it chilly here this morning. The windshields of our cars were covered in condensation that was just this side of actual frost. Time to start gearing up for home heating season! We have a forced air heating system, …

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As heating fuel prices have soared, more and more people have been taking a look at wood pellet stoves to reduce their utility costs.

Pellets that fuel these stoves are made from wood scraps ground into pellets to form a smooth burning fuel. They are a cheaper way to heat, but they are a bit less convenient than just turning up the thermostat.

The wood pellets typically come in 40-50 pound bags. And every day, sometimes twice a day depending on usage, you have to reload the stove.

But according to Peter Howe of NECN, Jon Strimling had a better idea: Flick a switch to have a hopper load the stove. Then get a guy with a truck to load the hopper for you.

“We’re taking pellets in bulk out of the back of this truck, by bulk I mean there’s no bags in them, and we’re flowing them down this pipe into the garage” says Strimling.

Two fills like this a year should be enough to heat a home.  That’s three to four tons of product that the homeowner doesn’t have to move.

Strimling’s company now charges about three hundred and twenty five dollars a ton, delivered, for pellets on pallets. In heating value, 30 to 40 percent less expensive than heating oil. They’ve just started selling hopper systems they hope will make pellets even more popular.

Not only is bulk delivery of the pellets less hassle than pellets in a bag, it costs about 10 percent less too.  There’s actually ten to fifteen percent of the product cost tied up the packaging.

Despite the hands-on requirements of wood pellet heating, it’s popularity has grown quickly in recent years. Over 800,000 homes in the U.S. use pellets for some or all of their heat, burning 2.2 billion pounds annualy. The industry has grown to 80 pellet makers and 23 manufacturers of fireplace inserts, stoves, and furnaces.

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According to R.J. Cohn, Editor of ruralnorthwest.com the owners of North Idaho Energy Logs are cranking out a whopping 100 tons of their eight-pound energy logs and 30 tons of wood pellets per day.

This company that started out small has gone from two log-making machines that were built in the 1920’s to a total of nine maching producing a half-ton of energy logs per hour per machine. Owners say that “Sales have been up for several years because home heating costs have soared,” and that “People are looking for an alternative.”

Tested extensively against other manufactured wood heating logs, Clark Fairchild, one of the owners said that pound-for-pound their logs burned twice as long as other manufactured logs.

“They also weigh eight pounds compared to others on the market that are five to six pounds in weight,” he said. “One eight-pound energy log contains 68,800 BTUs, and one unit of them has approximately 16 ½ million BTUs. It’s pretty hard to beat what they can put out in heat for the price.”

Log comparison tests done in both a conventional uncertified wood stove and a phase 2 certified wood stove also demonstrate what Fairchild is talking about. The high-density and low-moisture content of the North Idaho Energy Logs allows them to pack a whopping 8,600 BTUs per pound, which translates into some serious heat.

http://www.ruralnorthwest.com/artman/publish/article_8965.shtml

Manufactured Heating Logs

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Why a Wood Stove Fan?

Wood stoves produce large amounts of radiant heat.  This is where the heat radiates from the stove naturally heating the surrounding air.  Unfortunately, much of the heat goes up the chimney or ends up in the attic. Additional heat ends up trapped against the ceiling.  You may be able to push some of the air back down into the room with a ceiling fan but this approach is not very efficient and adds to your electric bill.

Solid metal wood stoves are more efficient and very little heat energy is lost up the chimney.  The challenge with a radiant heating system, though, is getting the heat distributed evenly throughout the area you are trying to heat.  It may feel warm or hot next to the stove itself, but there may be cold spots and drafts in other parts of the room or house. This is where a wood stove fan comes in. A wood stove fan distributes the heat radiating from the stove to the rest of the home.

Many wood stove fans are electric, but recently self-powered fans which work on heat alone have become available. This saves on electricity and improves safety since early electric stove fans would occasionally malfunction after constant exposure to high temperatures.  These new fans are designed to withstand high temperatures and use the heat from the stove to turn the blades of the fan.

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In a previous post we focused on wall and floor clearances for wood stove installation and materials that can be used to protect surfaces that where full clearance is not possible.  This post will focus on the stove pipe clearances required for safe operation.

These are based on standards developed by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) that are the basis for many local building codes.  

The stove pipe or chimney connector runs from the stove to the chimney. Many fires associated with wood stoves are caused by unsafe stove pipe installation. A safe installation requires proper material, construction clearances and does provide proper draft. A 24 gauge or thicker metal is recommended; lower gauge numbers indicate thicker metal. This gauge will provide better protection in the event of a chimney fire and will also resist chemical corrosion longer. Most stoves use either a 6 or 8-inch stove pipe. Using stove pipe that is smaller in diameter than the fire box outlet will reduce combustion efficiency and may cause improper draft.

Keep the connector pipe as short as possible. lt should not be longer than 75% of the vertical chimney height above the flue inlet (where the connector pipe enters the chimney). The maximum length is 10 feet. If the pipe runs horizontally, it should have a rise of at least 1/4-inch per linear foot from the elbow or stove outlet to the chimney inlet. Use 45″ angles to create an upward slope in the flue connector pipe. Try to have no more than one right angle turn between the stove and chimney.
 
Additional right angle bends can cause soot and creosote to collect in the smoke pipe or chimney, blocking flue gas flow and increasing the danger of a fire.

The connector pipe diameter should be as large as the flue collar (where the connector pipe joins the stove).  When joining sections of the pipe, overlap the joints at least 2 inches, with the crimped (male) end pointing down to prevent creosote drip or leak. Many house fires have resulted from stove pipe joints vibrating apart during a chimney fire. Secure each joint with at least 3 sheet metal screws. A fireproof sealant may be used in addition.

Clearances from a connector pipe must be 3 times the pipe diameter (a 6-inch pipe needs 18 inches clearance) unless the wall is protected. You should not pass a stove pipe through a combustible wall but if a stove pipe must pass through an interior combustible wall in order to hook up with a chimney flue, there are 4 ways to do this safely.

1) Use an U.L. “All Fuel” thimble extending through the wall, with a wall hole 4 inches larger than the thimble diameter. This permits the placement of an insulating material such as fiberglass or rock wool between the thimble and the wooden framing of the wall.

2) Use a ventilated thimble that is as least 3 times larger than the stove pipe. For a 6-inch stove pipe, use a thimble that is 18 inches in diameter. This type of thimble is not readily available but can be fabricated by a sheet metal shop. Ventilation through this thimble is an essential aspect of its design; the ventilating holes on either side must not be blocked.

3) Use a fire clay thimble surrounded by 8 inches of brick work or non-combustible material such as rock wool insulation.

4) Use no thimble but remove all combustible materials within 18 inches on all sides of the stove pipe. Material for closing this opening must be non-combustible, with insulating properties.

When the wall is cut between supporting studs for the thimble, inspect the opening to make sure there are no electrical wires or conduit in the space between adjoining wall studs. Heat from the stove pipe may be sufficient to melt the insulation on wire in this space, causing an electrical fire.

Stove pipe should not pass through ceilings, closets, or outside a building. Holes in the ceiling (including hot air registers) permit fires through upper floors. A closet fire could smolder and spread undiscovered.

Running a stove pipe out a window and up the outside wall of the house is a dangerous practice, because the pipe cools faster than a prefabricated metal chimney and allows a rapid creosote buildup. Wood burners sometimes recommend long spans of single thickness stove pipe as a heating device. This idea had some merit when used with old fashioned inefficient stoves where much of the heat went up the pipe. Today’s airtight stoves are more efficient and this practice may cause rapid creosote buildup.

Some stove installations require a damper either built into the stove or in the pipe near the stove to control draft and loss of volatile gases. Check the recommendation of the stove manufacturer.

When connecting the stove pipe to the chimney make sure the fitting is snug at the flue inlet. Use the proper thimble. The pipe must not project into the flue itself, since it would hamper draft.

Long stove pipes and those with restrictions should be cleaned frequently to prevent creosote buildup and possible chimney fires. The entire length of the stove pipe must be easily inspected, firmly fastened at the joints and kept free of all combustible materials. Tap
your pipe to check its condition several times during the heating season and before starting the stove each year.

Additional Precautions

1. Chimney and chimney connectors require regular inspection and cleaning to remain reasonably safe. Chimney fires are a common problem. There are several factors that can cause a chimney fire.

2. Furniture, wood, newspapers, matches, etc., can ignite if placed or left too close to a stove. These materials must be kept at least 36 inches away from the stove.

3. Stove surfaces can become as hot as 800 degrees F. At this temperature, combustible material can ignite and plastic material will melt. Be careful when drying clothing, making sure that nothing is dangling too near. Also, remove any slipping or tripping hazards near the
stove to reduce the risk of falling against it and perhaps suffering a severe burn. Small children must be taught to stay away from the stove. You should erect some kind of barricade around the stove if you have crawling tots who are too young to be verbally warned.

4. Never use kerosene or charcoal lighter fluids to start a fire. Also, do not burn trash in your stove. These materials lead to hot uncontrollable fires and may cause a chimney fire.

5. Keep the fire controlled with the dampers. Do not let it get roaring hot. A fire properly controlled is safer and more efficient.

6. If you want to keep your fire alive all night or when you are away from the house, bank the fire with ashes or damper it way down. Do not retire or leave home with a roaring fire going in the stove.

7. Place ashes in a lidded metal container. Because they might be hot, clean up any ashes or cinders that spill out on the floor.

8. Wear gloves when handling rough or splintery chunks of wood. If they are heavy, take care not to strain yourself or drop them on your foot.

9. You can burn wood in a coal stove, but you shouldn’t burn coal in a wood stove unless it is lined and designed for it. When you add coal to an approved stove, keep the stove pipe damper open until the fuel is burning well to avoid a potentially explosive buildup of gases from the coal. Heavily laden coal buckets can also cause strains and other mishaps if they are not handled properly.

10. Take down the stove pipe at least once or twice during the heating season and clean out the soot. Removing the accumulated soot saves fuel, increases heat and minimizes the danger of fire.

11. If you have yet to equip your house with fire warning devices, be sure to do so when you install a stove. Install a smoke detector in an adjacent room to avoid false alarms when you recharge the stove or from backpuffing due to wind.

12. Before opening the fire box to add fuel or just to look at the fire, always open the stove pipe damper first. This allows gases to escape up the chimney and eliminates the possibility of “flare up” when air suddenly comes in through the door.

13. With today’s tightly-constructed houses, there may not be sufficient air leakage for efficient stove operation. By providing an outside air inlet, you prevent the possibility of a reverse draft which may suck carbon monoxide fumes from combustion-type (natural gas, etc.) appliances and discharge them into the living area.

Installation of a wood stove is best left to the professionals.  Before installing a wood stove, seek advice from your stove dealer, your local building inspector or fire department.  It is also a very good idea to check with your insurance agent.  Your insurance provider may have its own specifications for installation and, since you will be changing the method of heating your home, your insurance agent must be notified in order to maintain fire insurance coverage on your home.

This information comes from Michigan State University Extension

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According to Ken Belson of the New York Times there are “Wood Wars” going on around the suburbs of New York City.

Tree trimmers for the utility company, that are used to scavengers in pickup trucks, are now seeing Mercedes-Benzes trailing their crews and loading logs into their (carefully lined) trunks.

Landscapers are also being pestered for the scrap branches they had to pay to dump just a few months ago. “People are desperate to look for ways to heat their homes cheaply.” said one arborist interview by Mr. Belson.

After a summer of high oil and gas prices, suburb dwellers around New York, and across the country, are going low-tech in hopes of reducing their energy bills this winter.

Shipments of pellet stoves, more than tripled in the first half of 2008 compared with the same period in 2007, according to the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association; the going rate for a cord of wood is $225, up from $175 last year, and the price of pellets, usually made from compressed sawdust, which has been scarce because of a slowdown in homebuilding, is also up (some people also burn shelled corn, peanuts, cotton and even cherry or olive pits).

Homeowners, not just in rural areas but also in the suburbs, are scrounging for wood, getting permits to cut in parks, hitting up tree-cutting crews and striking deals with neighbors.

Wood and wood-burning heating stoves go through spasms of popularity whenever oil and gas prices shoot up, most recently in 2005 after Hurricane Katrina. But this year’s run-up in prices was so rapid and sustained that people started planning for the coming winter not long after last winter’s snow melted.

Residential heating oil prices during the coming season are projected to increase 25 percent over last heating season, according to a forecast published on Tuesday by the Federal Energy Information Administration. Residential natural gas prices over the same period are projected to increase of about 17 percent.

With demand driving up prices for precut wood, many stove owners are taking to their neighborhood streets in search of free fuel.  Some towns try to prevent roadside scrounging by setting up wood-recycling depots. In Yorktown Heights, landscapers can dump their waste wood at a public works center. The town turns some of the wood into mulch, which residents grab to use in their gardens. They can also take as many of the remaining logs as they like, and lately, they have been disappearing faster and faster.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/15/nyregion/15wood.html?em

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Standard Installation Clearances

Installation of a wood stove is typically a job that is best left to the professionals.  Before installing a wood stove, seek advice from your wood stove dealer, your local building inspector or fire department.  You’ll also need to check with your insurance agent.  Your insurance provider may have its own specifications for installation and, since you will be changing the method of heating your home, your insurance agent must be notified in order to maintain fire insurance coverage on your home.

Standards have been developed by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) for wood stove clearances from walls and ceilings that are the basis for many local building codes.  The basic clearances are as follows:

All combustible materials such as woodwork, unprotected walls, furniture, firewood, etc., should be at least 36 inches away from your wood stove.  A stove pipe should be at least 18 inches away from an unprotected ceiling.

Wood that is continually reheated will ignite at much lower temperatures than fresh wood so these distances should be adhered too diligently.  For instance, a new wall will begin burning at between temperatures between 500 and 700 degrees F, whereas a wall that is continually heated over a period of time will dry and the ignition temperature can drop to as low as 200 to 250 degrees F (a good reason to avoid cutting corners.)

Wall Protection Clearances

Here’s a quick test that will tell you if you have enough clearance to an unprotected wall.  Put your hand on the nearest surface. If you can comfortably keep your hand there while the stove is operating, the location passes the test. If not, the wall needs additional protection.

Protection for the wall can be achieved by spacing either asbestos millboard or 28 gauge steel 1-inch away from the wall.  This will allow you to reduce the distance between the stove and wall.  These materials are designed to absorb heat that is radiated from the stove and the spacing in between the wall and the protective material lets air circulate behind the panel and cool the area in between.  Spacers should be made of non-combustible material.  A 1 to 1 1/2-inch gap between the panel and floor and at the top of the panel is necessary to provide proper air flow.

Asbestos millboard is different from asbestos cement board or asbestos transite board. Asbestos millboard is heat resistant while the others are not.

WARNING: Inhaling asbestos fibers may be harmful. The effect of long term exposure is not completely known.  However, you should wear a protective mask when cutting asbestos products.

Since brick and stone are good conductors of heat, they offer little protection if placed against a combustible wall or have wood studs behind them. To be effective, bricks must be placed out at least 1-inch from the wall with air gaps at the top and bottom. You can create the air gaps by using half bricks on the top and bottom row. Stoves can be placed as close as 12 inches from the brick facing if you provide an air space behind the brick.

An inexpensive and temporary way to protect a wall (if you already have a stove installed closer than 36 inches to an unprotected wall) is to provide a baffle. This baffle could be sheet metal, hardware cloth or cement board hung on metal brackets approximately 4 inches behind the stove.

Floor Protection Clearances

All floors on which stoves are installed, except concrete, must be protected from both heat of the fire and hot coals falling out when fuel is added. Metal with asbestos backing and asbestos millboard are non-combustible materials used for floor protection.

Fireproof clay tile, slate, brick, colored pebbles and marble chips can be used alone only if they are mortared in place with no gaps. If they are not mortared, or have gaps, then metal or asbestos millboard must be installed between them and a wood floor.  A 2-inch layer of ashes or sand or bricks laid in the bottom of the stove helps to insulate the bottom of the stove and protect the floor.

In general, 18 inches is enough clearance to protect the floor if it is covered by non-flammable material, such as a sheet of 24 gauge metal or brick or fireproof clay tile. If the stove legs are from 6 to 18 inches long, 24 gauge sheet metal laid over a 1/4-inch sheet of asbestos millboard is needed. Legs of 6 inches or less require 2 to 4 inches of hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation and covered by 24 gauge sheet metal. If the stove has no legs, provide a sturdy support to allow air circulation under the stove.

The floor protection should extend at least 12 inches beyond the sides and rear of the stove, and at least 18 inches beyond the stove front, to protect against falling embers and for loading wood or removing ashes.

Before installing heavy protection materials such as brick, check the floor to make sure it can handle the increased weight. You may want to reinforce the joists under the floor. Consult a carpenter if necessary.

This information comes from Michigan State University Extension

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